And On The Eighth Day, God Created Tartar Sauce

A few times every summer, for complicated scientific reasons, thousands of live fish, crab and shrimp wash up onto the beaches of Mobile Bay, Alabama, on the Gulf Coast. It's a natural event—like a hurricane, but good. Locals call it Jubilee. Curtis Sittenfeld goes to Alabama to find out what it's like when the sea spontaneously sets up a gigantic raw bar. (10 minutes)